How To Install a Roll Up Door and Framing Kit on a Shipping Container
How To Install a Roll Up Door and Framing Kit on a Shipping Container | The Container Guy

Installing a roll up door and framing kit on a shipping container is made easy when Channing McCorriston, The Container Guy, explains the installation instructions. He will show you the proper way to install a 6’4” roll-up door on a 40 ft standard one-time use shipping container.

If you’re interested in starting your own container modification, go to planmycan.com to start designing your shipping container. For more information, check out our website at tcg.ca. Hope you learned something!



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YouTube Video Transcript

0:00
hi I'm Channing McCorriston, The Container Guy
0:02
today we'll be installing a six foot
0:04
four inch roll-up door in the side of a
0:06
40-foot standard one-time used shipping
0:08
container
0:09
after landing a deal on national
0:11
television in 2011 where his team
0:14
pitched their idea of modifying shipping
0:16
containers he went on to start his own
0:18
business
0:19
since then he's completed thousands of
0:21
container modifications for clients in
0:23
every major industry
0:25
now he wants to teach you everything he
0:27
knows about container modifications and
0:29
accessories
0:31
channing mccorrison is the container guy
0:39
you may be wondering why the door is six
0:42
foot four inches and not just six feet
0:44
the corrugations the container are
0:46
eleven inches on center so we plan our
0:49
doors to be six foot four seven foot
0:51
three eight foot two nine foot one and
0:54
ten feet that's what works out perfect
0:56
where we always end up with an outside
0:58
corrugation for our side frames the boys
1:01
will be marking this out shortly and
1:03
then we will show you how to safely drop
1:06
a corrugation panel to avoid any injury
1:09
to yourself or others we've got the uh
1:12
rough opening marked out it's uh 76 and
1:15
5 8 of an inch wide by 84 inches tall as
1:18
you can see it lands to be just about
1:21
center in the outside corrugations
1:24
leaving us
1:25
room to rivet the side frame pieces on
1:28
up at the top
1:30
it's only eight inches down from the top
1:32
tubing the header is also another four
1:35
inches thick so we'll have 12 inches
1:37
from the top tubing and about 14 inches
1:40
from the ceiling inside the container
1:42
that's the max we can get out of the
1:44
door opening height so it'll be an 80
1:46
inch door opening which is similar to
1:48
any command or pro tip for dropping this
1:51
panel is when you cut the
1:54
bottom corrugation the
1:56
footer is actually designed to just cut
1:58
right on the top of the bottom weld the
2:00
material is the thinnest there you don't
2:02
want to cut through the weld it's just a
2:03
lot harder going leave a little bit of
2:07
corrugation uncut at the bottom so when
2:09
you drop your panel from the inside it
2:11
hinges along the bottom and safely drops
2:14
on the ground and the panel won't slide
2:16
back at you to potentially take out your
2:18
ladder or your legs
2:32
okay so we're back the guys have the
2:35
rough opening all cut out and prepped
2:37
for our door frame
2:39
the door frame consists of four pieces
2:41
there's the left and right side frames
2:44
the footer and the header
2:46
the side frames
2:48
they have pre-laser-cut holes
2:51
that will
2:53
drill through and rivet into the outside
2:56
corrugation that's left over
2:58
this
2:59
just sets right in
3:00
[Music]
3:02
and typically just rests in place footer
3:05
is laser cut perfectly we have left the
3:09
welds
3:10
for the footer to rest on that's
3:12
designed to sit flush there and then
3:15
we have
3:16
in the threshold plate
3:18
there is an area to stop the water from
3:20
actually pooling into your containers so
3:23
the water will flow out of the can
3:26
and then so this gets wood screwed into
3:28
the wood floor of the container
3:30
using number eight phillips head screws
3:33
rough opening is just slightly larger
3:35
than what it needs to be so the footer
3:37
and the side piece aren't touching the
3:39
footer is the exact
3:41
framed opening that you want it to be so
3:43
once you have this all in place get it
3:45
get your hole squared up but you can
3:47
make sure that you have the right
3:48
dimension by just making sure those two
3:51
pieces are flushed header tucks up in
3:54
place
3:55
and pre-laser cut
3:57
on the outside corrugations so you'll
3:59
drill from the inside out
4:02
through the corrugations sorry those are
4:04
the inside corrugations and then from
4:06
the outside we'll rivet back through and
4:08
that will
4:09
hold
4:10
the corrugations nice and tight up
4:12
against the header and provide that
4:15
structural rigidity back to the
4:17
container proper order for installing
4:19
the roll-up door frame is drill and
4:22
rivet
4:23
your bottom holes
4:25
then get your header installed across at
4:28
the top
4:29
so that needs to
4:30
get aligned and you need the movement
4:33
of the the side frames up the top after
4:36
your headers riveted in place then you
4:39
can jump inside the can and self-tapping
4:41
screw
4:43
up into the
4:44
top two holes into the 60 millimeter
4:48
square tube
4:49
once that's done then you can wedge the
4:52
corrugations out if there's a gap here
4:54
drill out the rest of your side frame
4:56
holes and rivet it in place
4:59
last would be
5:02
snugging up and screwing down your wood
5:04
screws into your threshold plate at the
5:06
bottom you'll see with the header this
5:08
return fold
5:10
actually wraps around the
5:13
fold on the side frame a couple holes on
5:15
the side of the header that are aligned
5:18
with holes on the side of the side frame
5:20
those we just
5:24
quickly rivet in place
5:26
that keeps everything nice and square
5:28
and your framed opening to be the proper
5:30
width dimension
5:32
from the inside you have to drill
5:34
through the pre-laser cut holes and the
5:37
inside corrugation once
5:39
these holes
5:41
are drilled out then from the outside
5:43
you rivet through the corrugations
5:45
through the header so what we found with
5:47
this container is that the corrugations
5:49
are slightly bowed inwards after we cut
5:52
the opening so
5:54
yeah we've already riveted the bottom
5:57
hole on the side frame now we will do
5:59
[Music]
6:03
we'll do this top one here but it's
6:04
about i don't know an eighth to a three
6:07
sixteenths of an inch away from the
6:09
corrugations so from the back side we'll
6:11
pry something in there to bring the two
6:13
uh sheets of metal
6:16
nice and snug and then rip it together
6:18
and just continue that process all the
6:20
way down one
6:22
tidbit of advice is if where you're
6:24
installing this frame has dents pound
6:27
those out prior to cutting your opening
6:29
because once you start hitting it after
6:30
it's cut out it just seems to
6:33
reverberate and not really
6:36
you know actually pound out the dents so
6:38
do that prior to cutting out the opening
6:40
but again if you have a random dent here
6:42
there even if you missed a rivet it's
6:45
not an issue but yeah just do your best
6:47
to pry from the back side get as many
6:49
rivets as you can into the side frame
6:51
another thing that's really cool with
6:53
these side frames is that
6:56
they're five and a half inches wide so
6:58
if 11 inches over a corrugation over
7:01
another roll-up door was to start here
7:04
the side frame would
7:05
come back around and then the two frames
7:08
will connect through these laser-cut
7:10
holes and now this will be a hollow
7:13
section
7:14
a vertical column floor to ceiling and
7:17
yeah so basically you can fit four
7:20
eight-foot roll-up doors nicely in the
7:21
side of a 40-foot container and have
7:24
super strong vertical posts
7:26
floor-to-ceiling you can see
7:28
that the side frame actually secures
7:31
into the top two by two tubing and so
7:34
the side frame actually goes right from
7:36
the floor to the ceiling and provides a
7:39
support column for this cutout top of
7:42
the side frame uh we use self tapping
7:45
screws to go into the 60 millimeter
7:46
tubing
7:48
[Music]
7:50
so in the header
7:52
we'll drill from the back side and then
7:55
rivet from the front side
7:57
[Music]
8:03
if the cans bowed
8:05
slightly out and the corrugations are a
8:07
bit spaced if you just work from both
8:09
sides into the middle as you go across
8:12
it will uh bring the corrugations closer
8:14
to the header and save you from needing
8:16
to clamp
8:20
and then once this is all done that's a
8:21
nice bead of silicone along here just to
8:25
potentially avoid any water intrusion
8:27
when working with the teak plywood
8:28
flooring which is most common you'll be
8:31
fine using a wood threaded screw but if
8:34
you're going into the bamboo flooring
8:37
which seems to be a little bit harder
8:39
sometimes we've had to pre-drill these
8:41
screws because uh
8:43
the wood thread just seems to be a
8:44
little bit too coarse and it ends up
8:45
snapping the head off so if you get that
8:47
and you snap ahead yeah it's pre-drilled
8:49
so we're back now we've got uh the
8:51
entire frame all riveted up and the
8:53
threshold plate screwed down we've also
8:55
siliconed around
8:57
all the edges and we've siliconed up top
9:01
above the header to make sure that no
9:03
water intrudes into the container so
9:06
we're about to hang the roll-up door i
9:09
just want to go over what it all kind of
9:10
comes with you'll have the door your
9:13
left and your right tracks and then
9:15
it'll come with a hardware kit where you
9:17
got your handles and then your mechanism
9:20
that stops the coil once it's all
9:22
installed from
9:24
rolling up and past and unwinding we
9:26
need to
9:28
make sure that
9:29
the
9:30
tracks
9:31
are secured to the door itself so
9:34
there's just two carriage bolts
9:36
with nuts
9:37
do that on each side
9:39
then we like to have the door propped up
9:42
on a ladder prior to lifting it in place
9:45
big note do not cut the
9:48
strapping tape
9:50
until
9:51
the tracks
9:52
are screwed on to the framing kit and
9:56
you're ready to drop the door slab in
9:58
there so do not unwind do not unwrap
10:00
don't do anything have an exacto knife
10:02
ready when you're ready but don't do
10:04
that prior to having
10:06
everything up and installed and ready to
10:07
go i just want to note that we order all
10:10
of our roll up doors to be seven foot
10:13
three inches tall that's a good height
10:15
for high cube containers uh if you
10:19
install a roll-up door on a standard
10:21
height can because the frames are seven
10:24
inches longer we cut off a seven inch
10:26
chunk
10:28
we've already cut that off and then just
10:31
on on this side we've actually
10:33
just uh angled that cut
10:36
to clear
10:37
the threshold plate on the floor so once
10:40
it's installed it just sits nice and
10:42
flush in here and we're able to silicone
10:43
around so any water that was to come in
10:46
here actually distill
10:47
angles out of the container so we're
10:49
about to lift the door in place
10:51
and we'll just give you guys an idea how
10:53
to do it
10:54
make sure you got one or two extra hands
10:56
because
10:57
it is a labor intensive process and can
11:00
kind of get a little awkward it's not
11:01
too heavy it's just awkward so what we
11:03
try to do is
11:05
prop the bottom
11:06
track
11:07
against the frame so when we go to lift
11:10
up we're just uh using leverage and
11:12
prying against the wall already so it's
11:14
not all
11:15
awkward and shaky so let the guys do it
11:17
lift it over my head here
11:18
[Music]
11:21
and so one guy on each side typically
11:24
and then one in the middle
11:25
step one will be uh try to just flush
11:29
the track to the side frame here it
11:32
should just sit nice and flush make sure
11:34
yeah your your door is spec to be the
11:36
same as your frame
11:38
and then once
11:40
you gotta get a longer 3 8 hex driven
11:42
head on your impact driver self tap your
11:45
screws secure your frame to it once your
11:47
frame secured everything's done you know
11:49
it's all right then we can cut
11:52
this
11:53
saran wrap and the tape and drop the
11:56
panel and you'll just
11:58
slowly want to feed your panel down and
12:00
let it drop nicely remove the foam
12:03
and then prior to tensioning the spring
12:05
you want to make sure that you've
12:07
installed your handles and the stoppers
12:10
because if you tension the spring the
12:11
door goes all the way up now you got a
12:13
problem so just finish
12:15
self tapping
12:17
all of your your tracks in place and
12:18
then it's time to cut and drop the door
12:21
sheet
12:22
be careful when you're cutting the foam
12:24
and saran wrap that you don't cut
12:26
through
12:26
the rubber uh door seal at the bottom so
12:30
yeah it's right here you can see a
12:31
little black strip so you want to stay
12:32
away from that a lot of times we just
12:34
kind of prep
12:36
prep the door to be cut
12:39
but we leave
12:40
the strapping tape
12:42
don't cut that until you have
12:45
helping hand
12:48
[Music]
12:51
nice sharp knife blade always helps
12:54
that i don't have
12:59
so you can already feel that uh tension
13:01
on that strapping tape and it's ready to
13:03
ready to go so now it's just two quick
13:05
cuts while you got help and you just
13:07
want to slowly
13:09
lower the door down and make sure
13:11
that
13:12
you have
13:13
the doors started in the track when you
13:15
do that
13:18
cut the one now
13:25
we got the door started in the track let
13:28
me get you a view of that
13:30
just here
13:32
and now
13:34
[Music]
13:36
you got to make sure you kind of hang on
13:37
to it because it's going to want to even
13:38
unwind out into the can so now just keep
13:42
tension on the door
13:45
and start pulling it down
13:47
one other problem is
13:49
if you just let it go on its own this is
13:51
a sharp edge here and a lot of times it
13:53
can scratch the paint on the door so as
13:55
we're going down
13:57
i'm kind of holding out on it and making
13:59
sure that we're not scratching the paint
14:01
on the door
14:04
the included stopper plate comes with
14:06
your hardware
14:07
you'll have to
14:12
remove
14:13
the
14:14
nut
14:15
on that carriage bolt
14:16
this nut and there'll be one more that's
14:19
included with the hardware that's where
14:20
your handle will go on the outside and
14:22
then this one you put the nut and the
14:23
bolt right through there now as this
14:25
door goes up
14:27
this will be inside the track
14:29
and then as it comes up it hits and
14:31
stops that door from unwinding
14:34
[Music]
14:47
so we've got the stopper plate installed
14:50
on this side of the door uh the latch is
14:53
on the other side so this one we don't
14:55
actually put a bolt through here because
14:57
there won't be any handle on that side
14:59
but the two handles that are provided
15:01
one goes in the center on the outside
15:04
the other one goes on the latch side on
15:06
the outside that's nice sometimes you
15:07
can step on it to compress your door
15:10
seal and allow you to latch the door
15:12
and it also includes a rope these two
15:14
holes right here you can just tie your
15:16
rope up and then when you're inside the
15:18
can and you want to pull down the door
15:20
you can just uh yeah grab the rope if
15:23
you're not tall enough to reach the door
15:24
itself and so here's the part that goes
15:26
into the track up at the top
15:28
self threading bolt is included and it's
15:31
pretty quick and easy you just slide
15:33
that through the track
15:35
that just taps it in place now when the
15:37
door sheet comes up it can't go any
15:40
further than
15:41
the stopper here and same thing on the
15:42
other side
15:44
don't get lazy and just try to use one
15:45
of these you need both of them
15:50
from the outside you have your
15:52
center door handle just two carriage
15:54
bolts not on the inside
15:56
and then same thing
15:59
two carriage bolts
16:01
not on the inside and on this one
16:03
there's the stopper on the inside as
16:05
well so it's pretty tight there's a lot
16:07
of material thickness there and the
16:08
carriage bolt isn't that long but it
16:10
does work and make sure you put it on so
16:12
after you've dropped the door panel
16:14
and have installed your door stops
16:17
then to tension the door so that you
16:20
don't want it just auto lifting itself
16:21
you just want it nice and easy so you
16:23
just you know a finger guides it up or
16:25
maybe a little bit more pressure in that
16:27
uh but yeah to tension the door you just
16:29
get a punch
16:31
and
16:33
it's just
16:35
just a gear here where you just
16:37
keep dragging grabbing cogs be very
16:39
careful you know once once it gets more
16:41
tensioned it can get you know it's
16:44
difficult so just be out of the way
16:46
where you don't wrap yourself in the
16:48
head with your punch or whatever tool
16:49
you're using to tension the door if
16:51
you're installing three inch brush seal
16:53
which we will be
16:54
you'll notice that you'll get it
16:56
tensioned it'll be set properly it'll
16:59
lift nicely and then once you install
17:01
your brush seal that keeps all the snow
17:03
and
17:04
dust and insects from entering your
17:07
container
17:08
uh that adds resistance so once you're
17:10
all said and done you'll notice your
17:12
door is harder to open you'll have to
17:13
come back in here and give it a few more
17:15
clicks one thing to notice is we're very
17:18
tight to the ceiling here so the six
17:20
foot eight opening is the max opening
17:23
that we can get out of a standard height
17:24
container i can just get my fingers
17:27
through there
17:28
beware this is a brand new or a one-time
17:30
use container if you had a used
17:32
container and there's any dents in the
17:34
roof at all
17:35
you're gonna have a hard time if this
17:36
thing binds you'll have to potentially
17:39
take the entire door down
17:42
cut the bottom of your tracks more and
17:44
then lift the door so if you feel
17:46
like your roof's not perfectly straight
17:48
or bent upwards
17:50
then uh maybe instead of cutting seven
17:52
inches off the bottom you can cut eight
17:54
nine something just to be safe and the
17:56
only thing that's gonna change is it's
17:58
just gonna lower
18:00
where your door stops so instead of
18:02
having six eight you have six seven or
18:05
six six
18:06
uh finished opening most people when
18:08
they're installing roll up doors uh
18:09
often they're in a high cube container
18:12
so this isn't as much of a worry
18:14
especially if your door is spec properly
18:16
so we use a seven foot three inch tall
18:19
door in a high cube container and then
18:21
that gives us another five inches of
18:22
clearance under here so no worries if
18:24
you're putting it in a high cube if it's
18:26
standard just beware one final thing to
18:28
note is that because we've used seven
18:30
foot three inch long tracks in a six
18:33
foot eight inch opening we're gonna have
18:35
to move the latch hole
18:37
up seven inches so we'll just basically
18:39
recreate that seven inches upwards and
18:43
cut that out
18:45
and then our door will be able to latch
18:47
and lock properly to finish the door and
18:49
make sure that you have a nice
18:52
wind and water tight seal we
18:54
use
18:56
two inch and three inch brush seal so at
18:58
the top
18:59
horizontally we use 180 degree aluminum
19:01
retainer with a two inch brush seal and
19:03
then on the sides we use a 45 degree
19:06
aluminum retainer with a three inch
19:08
brushed seal because the sides on an
19:11
angle it takes an extra inch of brush
19:12
seal to really make sure that you get
19:15
that seal up inside each of the cracks
19:22
so we've got the door seal all installed
19:24
using self-tapping screws through the
19:27
aluminum retainer
19:28
on the sides of the
19:30
roll-up door we use the 45 degree
19:33
retainer with a three-inch brush seal
19:36
after the brush seal installation we had
19:38
to jump inside the container give the
19:40
spring a couple more clicks to increase
19:42
the tension and that allows us to open
19:44
the door very easily
19:47
when closing your door
19:49
especially at the start
19:51
this rubber door seal is going to be
19:53
pretty firm so sometimes you have to
19:55
step on the handle to get the door to
19:58
latch you want it to be nice and tight
20:00
it might be difficult to start but as
20:01
the sun kind of
20:03
cures this and bends it over it'll get
20:05
easier over time
20:07
come to the edge and a lot of times yeah
20:09
with your foot when this can's on the
20:10
ground you can just step on here
20:13
and then you slide over slide latch here
20:16
has a slot where you can insert a disc
20:19
lock
20:20
and that'll keep all your possessions
20:22
nice and secure thanks for watching our
20:24
instructional video on how to install a
20:26
roll-up door in a shipping container if
20:28
i missed anything please feel free to
20:29
comment below if you enjoyed the video
20:32
please give it a like subscribe to our
20:33
channel and hit the bell for
20:35
notifications or visit us at tcg.ca
20:38
hope you learned something!

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