Installing a roll up door and framing kit on a shipping container is made easy when Channing McCorriston, The Container Guy, explains the installation instructions. He will show you the proper way to install a 6’4” roll-up door on a 40 ft standard one-time use shipping container.
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YouTube Video Transcript
0:00
hi I'm Channing McCorriston, The Container Guy
0:02
today we'll be installing a six foot
0:04
four inch roll-up door in the side of a
0:06
40-foot standard one-time used shipping
0:08
container
0:09
after landing a deal on national
0:11
television in 2011 where his team
0:14
pitched their idea of modifying shipping
0:16
containers he went on to start his own
0:18
business
0:19
since then he's completed thousands of
0:21
container modifications for clients in
0:23
every major industry
0:25
now he wants to teach you everything he
0:27
knows about container modifications and
0:29
accessories
0:31
channing mccorrison is the container guy
0:39
you may be wondering why the door is six
0:42
foot four inches and not just six feet
0:44
the corrugations the container are
0:46
eleven inches on center so we plan our
0:49
doors to be six foot four seven foot
0:51
three eight foot two nine foot one and
0:54
ten feet that's what works out perfect
0:56
where we always end up with an outside
0:58
corrugation for our side frames the boys
1:01
will be marking this out shortly and
1:03
then we will show you how to safely drop
1:06
a corrugation panel to avoid any injury
1:09
to yourself or others we've got the uh
1:12
rough opening marked out it's uh 76 and
1:15
5 8 of an inch wide by 84 inches tall as
1:18
you can see it lands to be just about
1:21
center in the outside corrugations
1:24
leaving us
1:25
room to rivet the side frame pieces on
1:28
up at the top
1:30
it's only eight inches down from the top
1:32
tubing the header is also another four
1:35
inches thick so we'll have 12 inches
1:37
from the top tubing and about 14 inches
1:40
from the ceiling inside the container
1:42
that's the max we can get out of the
1:44
door opening height so it'll be an 80
1:46
inch door opening which is similar to
1:48
any command or pro tip for dropping this
1:51
panel is when you cut the
1:54
bottom corrugation the
1:56
footer is actually designed to just cut
1:58
right on the top of the bottom weld the
2:00
material is the thinnest there you don't
2:02
want to cut through the weld it's just a
2:03
lot harder going leave a little bit of
2:07
corrugation uncut at the bottom so when
2:09
you drop your panel from the inside it
2:11
hinges along the bottom and safely drops
2:14
on the ground and the panel won't slide
2:16
back at you to potentially take out your
2:18
ladder or your legs
2:32
okay so we're back the guys have the
2:35
rough opening all cut out and prepped
2:37
for our door frame
2:39
the door frame consists of four pieces
2:41
there's the left and right side frames
2:44
the footer and the header
2:46
the side frames
2:48
they have pre-laser-cut holes
2:51
that will
2:53
drill through and rivet into the outside
2:56
corrugation that's left over
2:58
this
2:59
just sets right in
3:00
[Music]
3:02
and typically just rests in place footer
3:05
is laser cut perfectly we have left the
3:09
welds
3:10
for the footer to rest on that's
3:12
designed to sit flush there and then
3:15
we have
3:16
in the threshold plate
3:18
there is an area to stop the water from
3:20
actually pooling into your containers so
3:23
the water will flow out of the can
3:26
and then so this gets wood screwed into
3:28
the wood floor of the container
3:30
using number eight phillips head screws
3:33
rough opening is just slightly larger
3:35
than what it needs to be so the footer
3:37
and the side piece aren't touching the
3:39
footer is the exact
3:41
framed opening that you want it to be so
3:43
once you have this all in place get it
3:45
get your hole squared up but you can
3:47
make sure that you have the right
3:48
dimension by just making sure those two
3:51
pieces are flushed header tucks up in
3:54
place
3:55
and pre-laser cut
3:57
on the outside corrugations so you'll
3:59
drill from the inside out
4:02
through the corrugations sorry those are
4:04
the inside corrugations and then from
4:06
the outside we'll rivet back through and
4:08
that will
4:09
hold
4:10
the corrugations nice and tight up
4:12
against the header and provide that
4:15
structural rigidity back to the
4:17
container proper order for installing
4:19
the roll-up door frame is drill and
4:22
rivet
4:23
your bottom holes
4:25
then get your header installed across at
4:28
the top
4:29
so that needs to
4:30
get aligned and you need the movement
4:33
of the the side frames up the top after
4:36
your headers riveted in place then you
4:39
can jump inside the can and self-tapping
4:41
screw
4:43
up into the
4:44
top two holes into the 60 millimeter
4:48
square tube
4:49
once that's done then you can wedge the
4:52
corrugations out if there's a gap here
4:54
drill out the rest of your side frame
4:56
holes and rivet it in place
4:59
last would be
5:02
snugging up and screwing down your wood
5:04
screws into your threshold plate at the
5:06
bottom you'll see with the header this
5:08
return fold
5:10
actually wraps around the
5:13
fold on the side frame a couple holes on
5:15
the side of the header that are aligned
5:18
with holes on the side of the side frame
5:20
those we just
5:24
quickly rivet in place
5:26
that keeps everything nice and square
5:28
and your framed opening to be the proper
5:30
width dimension
5:32
from the inside you have to drill
5:34
through the pre-laser cut holes and the
5:37
inside corrugation once
5:39
these holes
5:41
are drilled out then from the outside
5:43
you rivet through the corrugations
5:45
through the header so what we found with
5:47
this container is that the corrugations
5:49
are slightly bowed inwards after we cut
5:52
the opening so
5:54
yeah we've already riveted the bottom
5:57
hole on the side frame now we will do
5:59
[Music]
6:03
we'll do this top one here but it's
6:04
about i don't know an eighth to a three
6:07
sixteenths of an inch away from the
6:09
corrugations so from the back side we'll
6:11
pry something in there to bring the two
6:13
uh sheets of metal
6:16
nice and snug and then rip it together
6:18
and just continue that process all the
6:20
way down one
6:22
tidbit of advice is if where you're
6:24
installing this frame has dents pound
6:27
those out prior to cutting your opening
6:29
because once you start hitting it after
6:30
it's cut out it just seems to
6:33
reverberate and not really
6:36
you know actually pound out the dents so
6:38
do that prior to cutting out the opening
6:40
but again if you have a random dent here
6:42
there even if you missed a rivet it's
6:45
not an issue but yeah just do your best
6:47
to pry from the back side get as many
6:49
rivets as you can into the side frame
6:51
another thing that's really cool with
6:53
these side frames is that
6:56
they're five and a half inches wide so
6:58
if 11 inches over a corrugation over
7:01
another roll-up door was to start here
7:04
the side frame would
7:05
come back around and then the two frames
7:08
will connect through these laser-cut
7:10
holes and now this will be a hollow
7:13
section
7:14
a vertical column floor to ceiling and
7:17
yeah so basically you can fit four
7:20
eight-foot roll-up doors nicely in the
7:21
side of a 40-foot container and have
7:24
super strong vertical posts
7:26
floor-to-ceiling you can see
7:28
that the side frame actually secures
7:31
into the top two by two tubing and so
7:34
the side frame actually goes right from
7:36
the floor to the ceiling and provides a
7:39
support column for this cutout top of
7:42
the side frame uh we use self tapping
7:45
screws to go into the 60 millimeter
7:46
tubing
7:48
[Music]
7:50
so in the header
7:52
we'll drill from the back side and then
7:55
rivet from the front side
7:57
[Music]
8:03
if the cans bowed
8:05
slightly out and the corrugations are a
8:07
bit spaced if you just work from both
8:09
sides into the middle as you go across
8:12
it will uh bring the corrugations closer
8:14
to the header and save you from needing
8:16
to clamp
8:20
and then once this is all done that's a
8:21
nice bead of silicone along here just to
8:25
potentially avoid any water intrusion
8:27
when working with the teak plywood
8:28
flooring which is most common you'll be
8:31
fine using a wood threaded screw but if
8:34
you're going into the bamboo flooring
8:37
which seems to be a little bit harder
8:39
sometimes we've had to pre-drill these
8:41
screws because uh
8:43
the wood thread just seems to be a
8:44
little bit too coarse and it ends up
8:45
snapping the head off so if you get that
8:47
and you snap ahead yeah it's pre-drilled
8:49
so we're back now we've got uh the
8:51
entire frame all riveted up and the
8:53
threshold plate screwed down we've also
8:55
siliconed around
8:57
all the edges and we've siliconed up top
9:01
above the header to make sure that no
9:03
water intrudes into the container so
9:06
we're about to hang the roll-up door i
9:09
just want to go over what it all kind of
9:10
comes with you'll have the door your
9:13
left and your right tracks and then
9:15
it'll come with a hardware kit where you
9:17
got your handles and then your mechanism
9:20
that stops the coil once it's all
9:22
installed from
9:24
rolling up and past and unwinding we
9:26
need to
9:28
make sure that
9:29
the
9:30
tracks
9:31
are secured to the door itself so
9:34
there's just two carriage bolts
9:36
with nuts
9:37
do that on each side
9:39
then we like to have the door propped up
9:42
on a ladder prior to lifting it in place
9:45
big note do not cut the
9:48
strapping tape
9:50
until
9:51
the tracks
9:52
are screwed on to the framing kit and
9:56
you're ready to drop the door slab in
9:58
there so do not unwind do not unwrap
10:00
don't do anything have an exacto knife
10:02
ready when you're ready but don't do
10:04
that prior to having
10:06
everything up and installed and ready to
10:07
go i just want to note that we order all
10:10
of our roll up doors to be seven foot
10:13
three inches tall that's a good height
10:15
for high cube containers uh if you
10:19
install a roll-up door on a standard
10:21
height can because the frames are seven
10:24
inches longer we cut off a seven inch
10:26
chunk
10:28
we've already cut that off and then just
10:31
on on this side we've actually
10:33
just uh angled that cut
10:36
to clear
10:37
the threshold plate on the floor so once
10:40
it's installed it just sits nice and
10:42
flush in here and we're able to silicone
10:43
around so any water that was to come in
10:46
here actually distill
10:47
angles out of the container so we're
10:49
about to lift the door in place
10:51
and we'll just give you guys an idea how
10:53
to do it
10:54
make sure you got one or two extra hands
10:56
because
10:57
it is a labor intensive process and can
11:00
kind of get a little awkward it's not
11:01
too heavy it's just awkward so what we
11:03
try to do is
11:05
prop the bottom
11:06
track
11:07
against the frame so when we go to lift
11:10
up we're just uh using leverage and
11:12
prying against the wall already so it's
11:14
not all
11:15
awkward and shaky so let the guys do it
11:17
lift it over my head here
11:18
[Music]
11:21
and so one guy on each side typically
11:24
and then one in the middle
11:25
step one will be uh try to just flush
11:29
the track to the side frame here it
11:32
should just sit nice and flush make sure
11:34
yeah your your door is spec to be the
11:36
same as your frame
11:38
and then once
11:40
you gotta get a longer 3 8 hex driven
11:42
head on your impact driver self tap your
11:45
screws secure your frame to it once your
11:47
frame secured everything's done you know
11:49
it's all right then we can cut
11:52
this
11:53
saran wrap and the tape and drop the
11:56
panel and you'll just
11:58
slowly want to feed your panel down and
12:00
let it drop nicely remove the foam
12:03
and then prior to tensioning the spring
12:05
you want to make sure that you've
12:07
installed your handles and the stoppers
12:10
because if you tension the spring the
12:11
door goes all the way up now you got a
12:13
problem so just finish
12:15
self tapping
12:17
all of your your tracks in place and
12:18
then it's time to cut and drop the door
12:21
sheet
12:22
be careful when you're cutting the foam
12:24
and saran wrap that you don't cut
12:26
through
12:26
the rubber uh door seal at the bottom so
12:30
yeah it's right here you can see a
12:31
little black strip so you want to stay
12:32
away from that a lot of times we just
12:34
kind of prep
12:36
prep the door to be cut
12:39
but we leave
12:40
the strapping tape
12:42
don't cut that until you have
12:45
helping hand
12:48
[Music]
12:51
nice sharp knife blade always helps
12:54
that i don't have
12:59
so you can already feel that uh tension
13:01
on that strapping tape and it's ready to
13:03
ready to go so now it's just two quick
13:05
cuts while you got help and you just
13:07
want to slowly
13:09
lower the door down and make sure
13:11
that
13:12
you have
13:13
the doors started in the track when you
13:15
do that
13:18
cut the one now
13:25
we got the door started in the track let
13:28
me get you a view of that
13:30
just here
13:32
and now
13:34
[Music]
13:36
you got to make sure you kind of hang on
13:37
to it because it's going to want to even
13:38
unwind out into the can so now just keep
13:42
tension on the door
13:45
and start pulling it down
13:47
one other problem is
13:49
if you just let it go on its own this is
13:51
a sharp edge here and a lot of times it
13:53
can scratch the paint on the door so as
13:55
we're going down
13:57
i'm kind of holding out on it and making
13:59
sure that we're not scratching the paint
14:01
on the door
14:04
the included stopper plate comes with
14:06
your hardware
14:07
you'll have to
14:12
remove
14:13
the
14:14
nut
14:15
on that carriage bolt
14:16
this nut and there'll be one more that's
14:19
included with the hardware that's where
14:20
your handle will go on the outside and
14:22
then this one you put the nut and the
14:23
bolt right through there now as this
14:25
door goes up
14:27
this will be inside the track
14:29
and then as it comes up it hits and
14:31
stops that door from unwinding
14:34
[Music]
14:47
so we've got the stopper plate installed
14:50
on this side of the door uh the latch is
14:53
on the other side so this one we don't
14:55
actually put a bolt through here because
14:57
there won't be any handle on that side
14:59
but the two handles that are provided
15:01
one goes in the center on the outside
15:04
the other one goes on the latch side on
15:06
the outside that's nice sometimes you
15:07
can step on it to compress your door
15:10
seal and allow you to latch the door
15:12
and it also includes a rope these two
15:14
holes right here you can just tie your
15:16
rope up and then when you're inside the
15:18
can and you want to pull down the door
15:20
you can just uh yeah grab the rope if
15:23
you're not tall enough to reach the door
15:24
itself and so here's the part that goes
15:26
into the track up at the top
15:28
self threading bolt is included and it's
15:31
pretty quick and easy you just slide
15:33
that through the track
15:35
that just taps it in place now when the
15:37
door sheet comes up it can't go any
15:40
further than
15:41
the stopper here and same thing on the
15:42
other side
15:44
don't get lazy and just try to use one
15:45
of these you need both of them
15:50
from the outside you have your
15:52
center door handle just two carriage
15:54
bolts not on the inside
15:56
and then same thing
15:59
two carriage bolts
16:01
not on the inside and on this one
16:03
there's the stopper on the inside as
16:05
well so it's pretty tight there's a lot
16:07
of material thickness there and the
16:08
carriage bolt isn't that long but it
16:10
does work and make sure you put it on so
16:12
after you've dropped the door panel
16:14
and have installed your door stops
16:17
then to tension the door so that you
16:20
don't want it just auto lifting itself
16:21
you just want it nice and easy so you
16:23
just you know a finger guides it up or
16:25
maybe a little bit more pressure in that
16:27
uh but yeah to tension the door you just
16:29
get a punch
16:31
and
16:33
it's just
16:35
just a gear here where you just
16:37
keep dragging grabbing cogs be very
16:39
careful you know once once it gets more
16:41
tensioned it can get you know it's
16:44
difficult so just be out of the way
16:46
where you don't wrap yourself in the
16:48
head with your punch or whatever tool
16:49
you're using to tension the door if
16:51
you're installing three inch brush seal
16:53
which we will be
16:54
you'll notice that you'll get it
16:56
tensioned it'll be set properly it'll
16:59
lift nicely and then once you install
17:01
your brush seal that keeps all the snow
17:03
and
17:04
dust and insects from entering your
17:07
container
17:08
uh that adds resistance so once you're
17:10
all said and done you'll notice your
17:12
door is harder to open you'll have to
17:13
come back in here and give it a few more
17:15
clicks one thing to notice is we're very
17:18
tight to the ceiling here so the six
17:20
foot eight opening is the max opening
17:23
that we can get out of a standard height
17:24
container i can just get my fingers
17:27
through there
17:28
beware this is a brand new or a one-time
17:30
use container if you had a used
17:32
container and there's any dents in the
17:34
roof at all
17:35
you're gonna have a hard time if this
17:36
thing binds you'll have to potentially
17:39
take the entire door down
17:42
cut the bottom of your tracks more and
17:44
then lift the door so if you feel
17:46
like your roof's not perfectly straight
17:48
or bent upwards
17:50
then uh maybe instead of cutting seven
17:52
inches off the bottom you can cut eight
17:54
nine something just to be safe and the
17:56
only thing that's gonna change is it's
17:58
just gonna lower
18:00
where your door stops so instead of
18:02
having six eight you have six seven or
18:05
six six
18:06
uh finished opening most people when
18:08
they're installing roll up doors uh
18:09
often they're in a high cube container
18:12
so this isn't as much of a worry
18:14
especially if your door is spec properly
18:16
so we use a seven foot three inch tall
18:19
door in a high cube container and then
18:21
that gives us another five inches of
18:22
clearance under here so no worries if
18:24
you're putting it in a high cube if it's
18:26
standard just beware one final thing to
18:28
note is that because we've used seven
18:30
foot three inch long tracks in a six
18:33
foot eight inch opening we're gonna have
18:35
to move the latch hole
18:37
up seven inches so we'll just basically
18:39
recreate that seven inches upwards and
18:43
cut that out
18:45
and then our door will be able to latch
18:47
and lock properly to finish the door and
18:49
make sure that you have a nice
18:52
wind and water tight seal we
18:54
use
18:56
two inch and three inch brush seal so at
18:58
the top
18:59
horizontally we use 180 degree aluminum
19:01
retainer with a two inch brush seal and
19:03
then on the sides we use a 45 degree
19:06
aluminum retainer with a three inch
19:08
brushed seal because the sides on an
19:11
angle it takes an extra inch of brush
19:12
seal to really make sure that you get
19:15
that seal up inside each of the cracks
19:22
so we've got the door seal all installed
19:24
using self-tapping screws through the
19:27
aluminum retainer
19:28
on the sides of the
19:30
roll-up door we use the 45 degree
19:33
retainer with a three-inch brush seal
19:36
after the brush seal installation we had
19:38
to jump inside the container give the
19:40
spring a couple more clicks to increase
19:42
the tension and that allows us to open
19:44
the door very easily
19:47
when closing your door
19:49
especially at the start
19:51
this rubber door seal is going to be
19:53
pretty firm so sometimes you have to
19:55
step on the handle to get the door to
19:58
latch you want it to be nice and tight
20:00
it might be difficult to start but as
20:01
the sun kind of
20:03
cures this and bends it over it'll get
20:05
easier over time
20:07
come to the edge and a lot of times yeah
20:09
with your foot when this can's on the
20:10
ground you can just step on here
20:13
and then you slide over slide latch here
20:16
has a slot where you can insert a disc
20:19
lock
20:20
and that'll keep all your possessions
20:22
nice and secure thanks for watching our
20:24
instructional video on how to install a
20:26
roll-up door in a shipping container if
20:28
i missed anything please feel free to
20:29
comment below if you enjoyed the video
20:32
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20:33
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20:38
hope you learned something!